By Surihe Gaomas VICTORIA FALLS Known as the ‘Smoke that Thunders’, yet it is this ‘thundering smoke’ from which the people of the Victoria Falls are making their living in Zimbabwe. The sweltering humidity grips you as you step into the presence of the overwhelming but majestic waterfalls. Thousands upon thousands of tourists from all over the world swarm to these Falls in southern Africa just to get a memorable glimpse of what is described as one of the seven wonders of the world. It is from the foreign currency spent here every year that the residents of Victoria Falls depend on for a living. “This hippo is just US$10,” said one Zimbabwean craftsman called Precious, as he tried to sell his artwork to one tourist. Just as the tourist pulled out her dollars from her purse, four other sellers swarmed around her to reveal their shiny wooden crafts and ornaments. Luckily for Precious, he quickly took the cash and stashed it into his pocket before the others could get a chance to bargain with the visitor. For the one-street town, tourism is thriving as a result of these waterfalls where curio shops, travel agencies, fast food spots and entertainment centres have popped up everywhere. To give visitors a traditional Zimbabwean cuisine Wimpy, which normally sells fast food burgers and chips, is also selling a delicacy known as ‘Mashakada’ in one of the many Shona dialects. This is a wholesome dish of rice mixed with peanut butter which one can wash down with a cold glass of water or ‘Mazoe’ which is orange juice. “I love this food here, it is completely different from what I eat at home,” said one American tourist as he clumsily uses his hands to eat mashakada. For most of the people who come here, it’s all about enjoying the breathtaking waterfalls. All one hears is the constant thunder and, once you get closer, the drizzle of the misty water caresses your face and body. Since the light water sprays in any direction, depending on the direction of the wind, visitors and tourists are advised to carry umbrellas when visiting the falls. Besides the selling of African crafts on the street, one can entertain oneself with a helicopter ride over the falls or a boat cruise on the mighty Zambezi River and, if that’s not too daring, you can even try bunjee-jumping down the deep cliff ravine of the falls. Quite surprisingly, a couple from India were allowing their seven-year-old daughter to try the daring plunge across the drift. “I would never ever do this,”said the father looking rather proudly as his daughter drifted like a feather in the air across the deep cliff, “but she is brave – just look at her, she’s smiling and waving at me.” Believe me, this is not for the faint-hearted no matter what age you are. For visitors from southern Africa, the entrance fee to this national tourist site, or waterfalls, is US$15 and for locals $500 (Zim dollars). As from this year (2007) there is a further 15 percent discount for SADC tourists to the falls. Situated just next to the middle of town in the main street are some vendors selling telephone cards. Joining friends every day, there are also white Zimbabweans who sell the same products to make ends meet. Another delicacy which is a hot favourite among locals and even tourists in Zimbabwe is mice. “Mice are nice. If you eat it once” said one man with a smile, “you will stop eating chicken,”. For many years mice have been a tasty delicacy for most traditional people and now the deep-fried spicy meat is even sold at common market places in town. No shebeens are allowed in Zimbabwe, so most of the residents have resorted to selling all kinds of fruits and vegetables and a myriad of other goods. A great treat over the festive season this year on the Zimbabwean side of the Vic Falls was the Unity Gala Musical Event which attracted prominent Zimbabwean, South African and international musicians on one platform. The peak of the event was when the Victoria Falls International Jazz Festival, where favourites like Oliver Mtukudzi, his son Sam and the Cool Crooners, rocked the crowd at the Elephant Hills Hotel on Christmas Day. That was surely the icing on the cake and it went down well for the overly-excited crowd of visitors and locals who attended the occasion. Yet, all in all, tourism from the mighty Victoria Falls is what keeps these people going, and it will be something they will surely depend upon as long as the waterfall continues to thunder – with its smoke.