OTJINUNGUA – It takes over 12 hours to drive to Otjinungua on the banks of the Kunene River, some 330 kilometres from the regional capital, Opuwo.
So bad is the road infrastructure that the wear and tear on vehicles is immeasurable.
That is for the experienced driver using a standard offroad vehicle.
But for a rookie driver, the journey could easily stretch to over 20 hours. For some, the drive is an adventure but for many in Kunene, however, it is a nightmare as an avalanche of challenges confront Otjinungua’s residents and those in surrounding areas.
While many at Otjinungua have dared to dream of running small home shops and campsites, it is a place without network coverage for radio, television, or cell phones, and it has one of the worst road terrains in the country.
Like many other businesses countrywide, Otjinungua’s tourism sector was not spared by the Covid-19 pandemic, which ravaged both lives and livelihoods.
As the Kunene residents continue to endure the harsh conditions, the poor roads remain a barrier to essential services and economic growth.
According to them, until the government addresses these challenges, they are left navigating not only rugged roads but also a slower path toward development.
Challenges
While Kunene is renowned for its breathtaking landscapes and vibrant Ovahimba culture, it faces an immense challenge that continues to stifle development: its poor road infrastructure.
Otjinungua, Ohajiuaa, Puros, Otjikondavirongo, and Orupembe villages, located over 360, 300, 170, and 200 kilometres outside Opuwo, are among the most affected areas.
The remote villages are cut off by rugged, unpaved roads that become impassable during the rainy season when rivers overflow, turning already difficult journeys into hazardous ventures.
Local residents have long voiced their concerns about the dangers posed by these roads, but many now feel their complaints fall on deaf ears.
“We have given up complaining about the road. It has disadvantaged us from getting even basic services like food,” one resident said.
The road conditions have had a profound impact on their daily lives, with delayed food deliveries and limited access to essential healthcare being common hardships.
During a recent visit, this reporter experienced the perilous journey firsthand on the road from Epupa Falls to Ohajiuua.
The rough, unforgiving terrain was so overwhelming that, at one point, the reporter began to scream in discomfort, only to be stopped by a coworker familiar with the customs of the area.
“These are sensitive roads; you do not scream here. The ancestors can do anything within their power to keep us here in the bush. It has happened several times. Just be strong; we will manage,” he said.
“Of course, they’re rough, and you will be shaken all the way, but you must try to keep it to yourself. The ancestors may stop us from proceeding if you keep screaming,” he emphasised.
Beyond cultural sensitivity, road conditions are a major concern. Many locals avoid driving the route altogether to spare their health and protect their vehicles from damage.
For outsiders, the 300-kilometre journey, which takes familiar travellers eight hours, can stretch into 24 hours for the inexperienced.
Headmen views
Kanjonjoo Tjambiru, the headman of Ohajiuua, shared his frustrations.
“That road is bad. We do not receive our food on time because the authorities claim there is no transport available due to the road’s condition. It requires a special vehicle to deliver food,” he explained.
He also pointed out that the absence of a functional clinic in the area is linked to the poor road infrastructure. “Professional nurses do not want to come here because of the road,” Tjambiru lamented.Paiva Hepute, the headman of Okapembe, expressed concern that the poor roads have caused them to miss out on important government initiatives.
“Recently, there was a registration for voter cards, and most of the residents were left out because the machine broke down. The officials went to collect another machine, but their vehicle broke down due to the road. This road is a concern,” he explained.
In Orupembe, the road from Otjinungua is in poor condition, though it improves somewhat toward Puros. However, residents say the road only gets levelled once a year, making it difficult to use.
“We normally use this road to Sesfontein. It’s hardly maintained, so cars often break down. If we get sick, there’s no guarantee we’ll reach the hospital the same day,” said senior traditional leader Katondoyihe Tjivinda.
At Otjikondavirongo, traditional leader Ratozomburu Mburura of the Vithathom Royal House echoed the same frustrations.
“We haven’t seen government officials for years. They don’t bring us services. We don’t have health extension workers, and we don’t have a clinic. The roads are very bad,” he explained. Mburura said it takes them a day or two to reach Opuwo for services. “Even the Electoral Commission of Namibia, when they came for voter registration cards, flew here. They didn’t drive, which shows the government knows there are no roads.”
Mburura further threatened that if the government, together with the office of the councillor, did not establish a road conducive to Opuwo, they would not participate in the upcoming local and regional elections.
Our experience
This reporter also experienced the road difficulties firsthand. We were unable to access certain areas where Mburura and some of his people lived. Arrangements had to be made for residents to meet halfway, as there were no roads leading to their village.
A local Good Samaritan had to collect the headman to speak with the journalist in the bush, as road access to the village was nonexistent.
For a region like Kunene, where communities depend on livestock farming and tourism, improving road conditions and decent roads are crucial for unlocking its full potential.
At Otjinungua, road conditions have worsened, and the shortest distance, which takes up to 24 hours to drive, is unsuitable for women, especially expectant mothers.
Mountain mothers
As a result, many women refrain from travelling and opt to give birth in the bush.
“It’s not necessarily a lack of clinics or a cultural issue that leads our young women to deliver in the mountains. It’s because of the road. You’ve driven it; how was the experience?” asked a local from the Marienfluss conservancy, who claimed to drive seven hours to Opuwo, as he is accustomed to the road conditions.
New Era was fortunate enough to drive on a newly established road built by the community, which is considered better by locals but worse for visitors.
According to residents, much like in Ohajiuua, they feel left out in terms of services due to poor road infrastructure.
“We don’t receive food on time because of the road. Businesses don’t reach us here. We have been voicing this issue countless times but to no avail. We don’t know what to do,” said one resident.