Matheus David
Heather Erdmann
In the heart of Havana Four-Way Stop, life pulses like a drumbeat.
Stalls stretch under colourful umbrellas, pavements of bare earth are baked by the midday sun and vendors wave makeshift flyswatters as flies circle overhead.
At first glance, it is chaos – a tangle of cars, pedestrians and shouting voices.
However, when you look closer, a rhythm emerges – a subtle pulse that keeps the market alive.
This is Havana’s heartbeat, a living, breathing ecosystem where every stall, vendor and customer plays a part.
Rhythm of resilience
Lesheni Aron, a hawker, calls Havana “a river between”.
“This is our city, where customers come and support us for a living,” he said.
“We know about the relocation plans – but from a business perspective, the municipality must organise an open market so we can serve our clients better,” he added.
Another vendor, preferring anonymity, describes the Havana Four-Way as less an intersection and more of a creature alive with its own pulse.
The rumble of old Chevrolets mixes with ringing bicycle bells.
The smell of roasted peanuts and exhaust fumes hangs in the air – a strange, yet familiar perfume. “Our voices blend with the distant strum of a guitar from a doorway. Customers save their change from town just to come grab fresh fish, bread, meat and vegetables,” the vendor said.
Olivia Johannes, a regular, marvels at the convenience and vibrancy of the market.
“I always buy my fresh relish here. Sometimes, I don’t even spend money on a taxi. I just walk a short distance to support local business owners,” she said.
Disorganised chaos
Then the chaos hits: a stray dog darts across the road, a vendor’s basket of mangoes tips over, and a sudden power cut swallows the streetlights.
Yet, the heartbeat never falters.
Music rises again, traffic flows, and the market exhales.
Havana Four-Way is alive – noisy, unpredictable and strangely comforting.
This street corner, often overlooked, is a testament to resilience.
It is the pulse of the community, a rhythm of life, where disorder and harmony coexist, and every beep, shout and strum contributes to a vibrant symphony of survival and enterprise.
– matheusshitongenidavid@gmail.com
Photo: Heather Erdmann