By Emma Kakololo
WINDHOEK
There is an old saying that the meaning of food is an exploration of culture through food. What we consume, how we acquire it, who prepares it, who is at the table, and who eats first is a form of communication that is rich with meaning.
A female sociologist, Josephine Beoku-Betts, once said that this area of work – food preparation and dietary practices – has traditionally been viewed as a “natural role” for women for a long time.
And it is indeed women who swamped the recent City of Windhoek’s arts and cultural festival, /Ae//Gams, with their offerings of traditional cuisine.
The /Ae//Gams is an annual event, which aims to foster positive images and revive arts and cultural activities in the city.
The festival ran under the theme “Ipele ka setso sa gago”, which comes from Setswana, meaning: “Have pride in your culture”.
Dressed in traditional apparel, women arranged tables to form a huge circle, each table filled with fares, which they showed off proudly at the United Nations (UN) Plaza in Katutura.
Among them were entrepreneurs Hileni Tanyaanda and Magano Theophilus.
Two members of the Ndilimani Cultural Dance Troupe after mesmerising spectators with their breath-taking dances – clapping, stomping, dipping, and leaping – headed straight for Tanyaanda’s cuisine table, where she had prepared Oshiwambo traditional food.
One of the dancers opened a silver bowl to expose mouth-watering golden brown half chicken pieces coated in marula oil. She opened the next bowl of steamed dried spinach, seasoned with marula oil and salt. She moved to yet another bowl with Omahangu porridge.
“Wow, you have porridge too,” the dancer remarked as she unleashed an intricate ululating shriek, “Hi-li-li-liiii”, a shout common at traditional weddings.
Tanyaanda’s eyes were filled with joy upon receiving such a yummy response from the dancers and saw the opportunity right to disclose her winning recipes.
“My chicken is best prepared without onion,” she said, her dark brown eyes glittering in the shadow of a tent. It was 3 pm.
“Nowadays, people use onion, which is not the traditional way of doing it. And also it does not need a lot of water. All you need is low heat to cook it tender. Once tender, you add a bit of salt and a little Ondjove (Oshiwambo term for marula oil),” she said.
With regard to the spinach she remarked: “First you soak the dried spinach in water. Once soft, you steam it and it also does not need a lot of water. After steaming for a while, you throw out the water, and put new water.
“People like to put tomatoes and onions, but this is not really necessary. All that is needed is a pinch of salt and Ondjove, or a little butter,”she said further.
This was the third time for Tanyaanda to take part in the cultural festival which she said reminded people of their culture as well as providing entrepreneurs, like her, with an opportunity to market their businesses.
“Since I have started, this show is becoming better and better each year.
“I am sure next year will be best. I also like the idea that the events are held here in Katutura where most of the citizens live instead of town. Not everyone can afford transport to town.”
She said the City of Windhoek gave them financial assistance to attend a course at the Namibian Chefs Association, where they received training in food hygiene.
“The hygiene part was very important for me. We were trained not to poke our nose or scratch our hair when handling food, or put our cell-phones in our bras and that we should try and keep ourselves clean all the time.
“Sometimes we, as sellers, do all these funny things before our customers and then wonder when people walk away without buying anything even though we can clearly see that the person is hungry. We are the ones who chase our customers away because of the way we present ourselves.”
Next to Tanyaanda was Theophilus, who has a small stall at Oshetu Market at the Single Quarters. Like Tanyaanda, she is not a newcomer to the show – it is her second time.
Apart from the crisp chips, sweets and soft drinks she was selling, she also had with her fried potato chips, Russian sausages and boerewors as well as hotdog rolls.
Theophilus said on Friday she had prepared Oshiwambo traditional food, but decided to make ‘hotdogs’ on the Sunday to also cater for other cultural groups.
“This show is about different cultures and we need to provide a variety of food for every one. We also have tourists coming to this festival each year and sausage and roll is the traditional food for some of them, especially Europeans,” she said.
“This event is aimed at celebrating and raising awareness of multiculturalism in Windhoek. It is a great event that should never be missed,” she added.
According to the festival coordinator, Wilfried Gaeb, the cuisine exhibition is free of charge and everyone is welcome to sell their food provided that they meet the hygiene standards. One such requirement is that food should not stand for more than four hours in the sun, otherwise it will not be fit for human consumption.
“The number of participants has increased over the years and we particularly challenge men to bring in some change,” urged Gaeb.
He said many showgoers have realised that the country has different cultures, and learnt to be tolerant of other people’s cultures as well as support each other.
“For example, if a Nama-speaking person sees that it is only Oshiwambo food on display, he would be keen to try out the food and also vice versa.”
He said the aim of the festival was not only to create cultural awareness, but also domestic tourism.
“People visiting friends and relatives make use of the traditional food and services that the City of Windhoek provide. This is also a great opportunity for SMEs (Small and Medium Enterprises). The money goes straight to them, the people at the grassroots.”